From the CHR Hansen Technical Brochure on Swiss
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Eye formation is critical to the visual acceptance of many cheeses. The starter cultures can be selected on the basis of how quickly they produce carbon dioxide (CO2) and this can affect the resulting eye formation. Eye formation occurs at nuclei sites in the cheese. These nuclei are usually small air bubbles, either incorporated in the curd when it is worked after draining or present in the milk. The shape and number of holes that develop in the cheese depend on the rate of gas production and cheese texture. If the gas production is not too fast and the cheese is viscous, eyes develop correctly. If the texture is not viscous, so-called short texture and the breaking stress is low, slits rather than eyes can be formed. This can be the case in a cheese of low pH and high proteolysis at the time of gas production.
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There has been a lot of discussion about eye formation in the forum. This seems to suggest that air bubbles are necessary. Pressing under whey has been suggested in the forum to eliminate air bubbles? This seems to be the opposite of what the Hansen material suggests.
My take on this is 1) reduce (or change) starter culture so that pH doesn’t drop too quickly. 2) reduce Propionic culture so that CO2 is not generated too quickly 3) work the curds prior to pressing to introduce air bubbles 4) reduce pressure of final press to retain air bubbles and a viscous texture.
I know I’m off on my thinking, so a critical analysis of the blurb from Hansen’s Swiss technical brochure is VERY much appreciated.