No trip to San Miguel could ever be complete without a visit to its famous Jardin (pronounced hardeen). I don’t think a day went by that didn’t find us either in the Jardin or somewhere close by. It truly is the heart of this city, and has been since 1737. The centerpiece of this lovely square is without a doubt the Parroquia, a pink stone confection fit to top someone’s wedding cake.
The ancient laurel trees provide shade from the strong sun. They are manicured into hedge-like shapes and are constantly being clipped and cared for by a small army of gardeners. When I touched their mighty trunks their bark felt like smooth stone underneath my hand. Powerful.
People come to just sit and watch the world go by, meet friends, eat ice cream, and tap into the free WiFi that is provided for the entire square. What better place to sit and get your email?
Surrounding the square are many restaurants and small shops selling locally crafted wares. Vendors abound selling balloons, sombreros, and dried flower arrangements.
I never tired of looking at the Parroquia ...
The doorways of San Miguel are so interesting. Not only are they architecturally pleasing, but there is a certain mystique of what lies behind them. Even the plainest of doors can be hiding a lush courtyard, a swimming pool, a gorgeous home. You have to use your imagination unless you happen by when the door is open and you’re able to sneak a quick peek.
There are whole books with page after glossy page dedicated to just the fascinating doorways of San Miguel. I don’t claim to be in their league, but here are a few that I passed by that captivated me.
After a few days you can feel the bold colors of Mexico seeping into your soul, filling you with its warmth.
Red, ochre, orange, blue.
How does one go about describing the streets of San Miguel?
narrow
bumpy to downright jarring
up and downhill inclines
busy
charming
colorful
intriguing
One thing I can say is that I am not quite ready to take up the challenge of driving them myself. Walking, yes. Driving, no. My mother-in-law is pretty darn good at navigating the narrow, crowded streets, but even she has a scratched up side mirror from some encounter she can’t quite remember.
Traffic flows smoothly even though there are no traffics lights to control traffic. Instead traffic is slowed by large speed bumps, called topes, which could rip the underside of your car off if you go over them too fast. Another unique thing is the “every other” rule. If a car is waiting to gain entry to a busy street from a side street, the traffic in either direction will stop and let them out. The next person is not obligated to stop to let someone out, but the following person will be. All very civilized. Just remember that the rule applies to you as well and some people might get a bit testy if you don’t let them out on their turn. Especially taxis.
Ah, the taxis. Cheap and easy transportation throughout the city in a green and white vehicle. Twenty pesos (about $1.50) will buy you a taxi ride to almost anywhere within the older city. A bargain for sure since parking can be hard to come by.
Here are a few street scenes.
To be continued ...
That’s what everybody said when we told them we were going to Mexico. I’m so glad we didn’t listen. Many other people did however change their travel plans due to the swine flu. Our flight from Newark to Houston was on a huge Boeing 777 aircraft (marvelous plane!!) that was not even half full. So many empty seats! Our flight from Houston to Leon/Guanajuato normally held 35 people and we had 15 on board.
When we got to San Miguel the local people were not wearing masks and you would never know there was a threat of contracting the flu. A few places were closed, like the library, but otherwise all the restaurants and shops were open. They tell us that May is normally their slowest month (and hottest) and many businesses close anyway and it was the Mexican equivalent of Labor Day while we were there. Wait staff in the restaurants sometimes greeted customers at the door with hand sanitizer and took orders with masked faces. By mid-week the face masks had been abandoned completely although the odd person here or there might still be wearing one. I saw one gentlemen on our last day that had a white mask on with a drawn-on large mustache and a mouth, suggesting that this is what he looked like under his mask.
Many people had a sense of humor about the whole thing like the book store:
Coming home we did have to go through a little medical check at the airport. We had to fill out a form and answer questions such as if we had had a fever, been on a farm, etc. We had to stand in a certain spot as an infrared camera took our temperature. No big deal.
I am so glad we went. We would have missed out on a wonderful vacation and that would have been a shame indeed. And all because of a pig ...
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